{"id":1353,"date":"2015-07-27T11:52:16","date_gmt":"2015-07-27T09:52:16","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/costumes-urbains.com\/?p=1353"},"modified":"2015-09-25T07:56:44","modified_gmt":"2015-09-25T05:56:44","slug":"le-projet-de-lete-riding-habit-le-gilet","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/costumes-urbains.com\/?p=1353","title":{"rendered":"Le projet de l’\u00e9t\u00e9 :Riding habit: le gilet"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Pour cette troisi\u00e8me partie je continue en m’attaquant au gilet. Je suis un ordre bien pr\u00e9cis: du dessous vers le dessus ! Comme pour un habillage. <\/strong><\/p>\n

Pour le gilet je n’avais pas de patron mais une image de r\u00e9f\u00e9rence ! ce gilet date de 1790\/1795; On n’est pas exactement sur la m\u00eame p\u00e9riode mais on peut entrevoir les grand principe de base rien qu’en l’ observant. <\/strong><\/p>\n

http:\/\/collections.vam.ac.uk\/item\/O115763\/waistcoat-unknown\/#.UMw6TA0nW78.pinterest<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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J’ai d’abord dessin\u00e9 le dos que j’ai agrandis \u00e0 mes mensuration et j’ai r\u00e9alis\u00e9 un moulage du devant \u00e0 partir de celui ci !<\/strong><\/p>\n

J’ai r\u00e9alis\u00e9 trois toiles (apr\u00e8s la toile de base et les premi\u00e8res corrections)<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Ce qui donne ceci sur papier:<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Puis j’ai attaqu\u00e9 la version d\u00e9finitive: j’ai d’abord entoil\u00e9 la partie externe<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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J’ai coup\u00e9 deux fois les parties du dos (un doublure et un tissu externe , le tout dans le m\u00eame coton)<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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J’ai marqu\u00e9 sur mon patron la composition de la doublure pour les parties avant (fractionn\u00e9 3\/4 en coton et 1\/4 en burlington \u00e9cru pour r\u00e9aliser le revers du col )<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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J’ai cousu deux morceaux de tissu ensemble un cot\u00e9 coton, un cot\u00e9 burlington puis j’ai plac\u00e9 mon patron dessus pour la d\u00e9coupe des pi\u00e8ces de doublure avant . <\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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J’ai assembl\u00e9 les pi\u00e8ces externes ensemble puis les pi\u00e8ces de doublure ensemble . <\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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J’ai superpos\u00e9 endroit contre endroit:la doublure et le tissu externe. J’ai fix\u00e9 les bords haut: l’encolure, les dessous de bras et puis la ligne droite ouverture fermeture\/ouverture devant.<\/strong><\/p>\n

J’ai retourn\u00e9 le tout par le bord bas (toujours ouvert) et j’ai marqu\u00e9 toutes mes coutures au fer. <\/strong><\/p>\n

Puis j’ai cousu la partie dessus d\u00e9paule\/dos pour former le gilet<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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J’ai referm\u00e9 le bord bas \u00e0 la main en effectuant des replis interne (partie externe et doublure)<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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idem pour la fente du dos. J’ai plac\u00e9 mes oeillets (oui c’est mal, j’aurais du les coudre \u00e0 la main , mais franchement quand on ne sait pas coudre \u00e0 la main proprement il vaut mieux opter pour la machine ou pour des oeillets m\u00e9talliques. Ma machine ne proposant pas un point satisfaisant j’ai opt\u00e9 pour les oeillets).<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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J’ai ensuite fais un replis sur les coutures internes \u00e9paules<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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J’ai r\u00e9alis\u00e9 enfin mes boutonni\u00e8res \u00e0 la machine. <\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Et voil\u00e0 !<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/article>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Pour cette troisi\u00e8me partie je continue en m’attaquant au gilet. Je suis un ordre bien pr\u00e9cis: du dessous vers le dessus ! Comme pour un habillage. Pour le gilet je n’avais pas de patron mais une image de r\u00e9f\u00e9rence ! ce gilet date de 1790\/1795; On n’est pas exactement sur la m\u00eame p\u00e9riode mais on […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[17,13],"tags":[22,59],"class_list":["post-1353","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-costumes-historiques","category-making-off","tag-22","tag-bum-roll"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/costumes-urbains.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1353","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/costumes-urbains.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/costumes-urbains.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/costumes-urbains.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/costumes-urbains.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1353"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/costumes-urbains.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1353\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4164,"href":"https:\/\/costumes-urbains.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1353\/revisions\/4164"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/costumes-urbains.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1353"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/costumes-urbains.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1353"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/costumes-urbains.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1353"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}