{"id":5217,"date":"2017-09-28T10:05:38","date_gmt":"2017-09-28T08:05:38","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/costumes-urbains.com\/?p=5217"},"modified":"2017-08-29T10:56:08","modified_gmt":"2017-08-29T08:56:08","slug":"le-projet-de-lete-apres-lete-madame-louise-de-lavalliere-1680-la-chemise","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/costumes-urbains.com\/?p=5217","title":{"rendered":"Le projet de l\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9 apr\u00e8s l\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9 : Madame Louise de Lavalli\u00e8re 1670 la chemise"},"content":{"rendered":"

j’ai utilis\u00e9 un patron qui se trouve dans le livre\u00a0Period Costume for stage and screen<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

pour mieux comprendre \u00a0j’ai color\u00e9 les \u00a0<\/strong>pi\u00e8ces<\/b><\/span><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

puis j’ai \u00a0agrandis, je n’ai pas \u00a0fait de patron j’ai fait cela directement sur le tissu.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

apr\u00e8s avoir d\u00e9coup\u00e9 la pi\u00e8ce principal \u00a0A \u00a0qui forme la partie avant \u00a0et \u00a0la partie dos, on d\u00e9coupe les godets cot\u00e9 D. Il en faut 4 (je sais j’ai marqu\u00e9 2 sur le dessin). on les coud deux par deux \u00a0pour avoir une paire.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

puis \u00a0on \u00a0coud les \u00a0godets sur chaque cot\u00e9s \u00e0 partir de la marque \u00a0M : dos\/ avant , droite \/gauche\"\" \"\" \"\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

ensuite \u00a0il faut ajouter \u00a0les manches! \u00a0j’ai doubl\u00e9 l’amplitude des manches: pi\u00e8ce B1(B2 sert si on veut des manches plus longues), je trouve au final que ce n’\u00e9tait pas \u00a0assez !<\/strong><\/p>\n

puis j’ai \u00a0cousu trois\u00a0\u00a0 coulisses : une au ras de la manche, une a 1\/3 et l’autre au 2\/3 (celle ci je l’ai cousu apr\u00e8s avoir mont\u00e9 les goussets)<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

emplacements des coulisses<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

il faut ajouter le gousset c1 qui sert pour l’amplitude sous le bras: on \u00a0coud le premier cot\u00e9 sur l’endroit de la manche<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

on replis la manche en deux \u00a0endroit contre endroit , on coud l’autre cot\u00e9, cela forme un angle.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

ce qui donne ceci<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

En noir les coulisses<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

puis on place \u00a0en premier \u00a0l’angle de la manche \u00a0sur la partie A en M. Le point rouge c’est \u00a0le d\u00e9but du godet du bas de la chemise.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

on fronce l’\u00e9paule \u00a0de la manche et \u00a0on \u00e9pingle et on coud<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

on fabrique \u00a0une fente \u00a0sur le devant milieu \u00a0et \u00a0un couloir le long de l’encolure<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

on ajoute la dentelle \u00a0sur le bord<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

on fabrique \u00a0deux rang de dentelle \u00a0que l’on fixe \u00a0sur le bord de la manche<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

on n’oublie pas \u00a0de glisser les rubans \u00a0dans les coulisses manche et de l’encolure \u00a0et de r\u00e9gler l’amplitude \u00a0des fronces ! \u00a0on r\u00e9alise l’ourlet bord bas de la chemise:<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

a titre \u00a0informatifs \u00a0si voulez prendre mon patron mesure \u00a0: je mesure 1m64 et je p\u00e8se 55 kg<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u00e0 chaque \u00a0\u00e9tape j’ai surjet\u00e9 , ce n’est pas historique \u00a0mais le surjet c’est \u00a0la vie ! oui \u00a0parce que si vous voulez que votre costume se conserve \u00a0plus longtemps, soit lavable en \u00a0machine , qu’il soit bien fini \u00e0 l’int\u00e9rieur et que vous puissiez l’utiliser de nombreuses fois : il faut a alors surjeter !\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

j’ai utilis\u00e9 un patron qui se trouve dans le livre\u00a0Period Costume for stage and screen pour mieux comprendre \u00a0j’ai color\u00e9 les \u00a0pi\u00e8ces<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[17,8,13],"tags":[83,85,53,29,56,84],"class_list":["post-5217","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-costumes-historiques","category-les-tutos","category-making-off","tag-83","tag-louis-xiv","tag-patrons","tag-sous-vetement","tag-techniques","tag-versailles"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/costumes-urbains.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5217","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/costumes-urbains.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/costumes-urbains.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/costumes-urbains.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/costumes-urbains.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=5217"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/costumes-urbains.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5217\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5268,"href":"https:\/\/costumes-urbains.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5217\/revisions\/5268"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/costumes-urbains.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=5217"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/costumes-urbains.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=5217"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/costumes-urbains.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=5217"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}